The Simplified School Girl (SSG) Project
Schematic | Parts Kit | Introduction | Instructions | Materials | Parts Sources | Tools | Construction | Avoid | Safety | Group Tests | Resources for History, Theory, Advancement and Application
To join the advanced Yahoo Bedini_Monopole groups you must first build a Bedini Monopole Energizer and test it according to the information given. Additional construction details are found here: http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Bedini_SG You must provide your real and full name and provide data showing you have done the basic load tests mentioned on the following beginner's group: Yahoo Bedini_Monopole3. If you cannot build according to the plans we cannot help you do that. Please do not ask questions about electronics. This list is for those who are willing to actively participate in doing simple testing of this Energizer.
Absolutely no questions about the advanced groups will be read and answered without people first building, testing, and providing test data to the following email address:
Introduction to John Bedini Monopole Mechanical Oscillator Radiant Energizer Simplified School Girl (SSG) Project
What I Understand the SSG to Be:
Mental Preparation Necessary to Learn:
Twofold Purpose of this Experiment:
Commitment to the Policy:
The Quest for Free Energy or Over Unity:
Low Resolution Video for dialup:
84MB wmv edition
The following is a list of materials that may be necessary to replicate the Bedini School Girl circuit and motor as presented in this guide. Some of the parts are flexible.
Batteries, Rechargeable Lead Acid, deep cell (like Golf cart 6v or 8v preferred). But you can use car batteries or small 1 to 12 ah lead acid or gel.
Bicycle Wheel Rim -- Or Other Rotor Device
Non-magnetic wheel rim
PO Box 1246; Pittsfield, MA 01202
Tel: (413) 442 - 0067; Fax: (413) 445 -7849
· Estimated cost
Diode, 1000 Volt (D2)
· Estimated cost
Magnet Core (Welding Rod)
· Estimated Price
Magnet Wire for Coil Winding
Magnet Wire for Trigger Coil Winding
· Make & Model
· Estimated Price
· Estimated Price
· Estimated Cost
· Estimated Price
· Wire cutter.
· Something to cut the welding rods to length (may want to use cutter available where you purchased the rods).
· Something to fabricate the stand for the wheel. (e.g. jig saw to cut wood).
· Soldering gun and solder.
· Metal drill to put hole in aluminum heat sink to fasten circuit to device.
· Screw driver and 2-4 screws to screw heat sink to stand.
· Skill Saw, to cut boards.
· Drill, to wind wires on coil.
Digital voltmeter, analogue ampere meter.
Oscilloscope is needed for more advanced testing.
Parts Sources (US and International)
Refined instructions are forthcoming. See http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bedini_Monopole3 for details.
A set of instructions is given below for three simple steps. This is where everyone should start with learning about these machines. As you will see in the instructions, you are not to assume anything or change anything. No need to do anything but the simple SSG setup. No upgrades needed. No need to worry about a perfect setup. We are looking to see what happens to the charging battery. What is the difference between what the meter says goes into it, and what kind of work we can get out of that battery on a repeated basis. Do as many presentations as you wish to help in this project.
Below the specific instructions are misc. coaching instructions you will want to pay attention to. Each set of instructions follows the posting where it was found on the main list. Further clarifying remarks between these [ ] brackets may be added later.
STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Take a small, 1 coil, smooth running, SSG. No capacitor
dump [setup], just take the diode output of the coil and put
it to a secondary battery positive [that is the SSG setup with the diode and not the SCR]. The secondary
negative terminal should be hooked to the primary
positive. Set it to where the mechanical efficiency
of the motor peaks out at 75ma input current or below. [If you cannot build that small of a machine, then report your results with higher draws.]
The way I tune this is to measure the ratio of rpm and convert to
magnets/minute then divide by the ma. You'll have to have a
tachometer, or count scope traces to get your mpms. [Or use a meter that measures Hertz]
Measure your input current with both your
analog meter and your digital meter, and note any major
discrepancies. If there is, report the measurement from your analog
Now that we have optimized motor output, the next step is to measure
the current going into the output battery. At this point we will
not be concerned with the current being used by the input battery.
This will come into play later; so for now, as hard as it is, just
forget it. Now everyone who has played with this circuit knows that
measuring the pulsed dc current is a little trickier than normal. I
try to measure it with at least two different methods until I can
get the two to agree with one another. Then I know that I am
close. Here are the two easiest ways I have found to measure this
#1) The easiest. Get yourself an ANALOG current meter and put it in
series with the 2ndary battery. Measure the voltage of the
secondary battery. Multiply the two together to get the watts.
#2) Get 2 identical small flashlight bulbs (12v 100ma for example).
Replace the secondary battery with one of the light bulbs. Run the
motor. Now take the other light bulb and put it in series with a
potentiometer and a current meter. Hook it to the same battery you
are running the motor on. Adjust the potentiometer until both light
bulbs glow at the same brilliance. Then read the ampmeter. Put an
voltmeter across the lightbulb. Multiply the volts times amps to
get the watts.
Step #3) Stop the motor. Take your secondary battery out of the circuit
and put a known load across it (I like to use a 10watt 10 ohm, for
example [that is too high for really small batteries which could use a higher ohm resistor like 50 ohm more or less). Get a stopwatch and measure, as precisely as you can, the
time you are discharging the battery. Put a digital volt meter
across the resistor and note the voltage levels during the discharge
time. You will be needing to get an approximate average voltage
across the load resistor during this time. You want to take the
voltage down to a predetermined voltage level which you will be
watching precisely say 12.40V for example. When it gets close to
this level (12.41 in this case) disconnect the load from the battery
and stop the stopwatch as soon as the meter first flashes 12.40. We
are going to call this, for future simplicity's sake, the load
termination point. Now measure the power in joules (or watt-sec)
that you took out of the secondary battery. Multiply the duration of
the load from the stopwatch (in seconds) * AVERAGE voltage * AVERAGE
voltage / the resistance of the load (in ohms).
This will give you the output of the system in joules. Write this
Now, take the battery and put it back in the charge circuit in the
SSG and run the motor for an hour. Set a timer and run the motor
charging the battery back for precisely an hour (3600 sec). (If the
battery tops out before this just shorten the duration but make it
Multiply your input energy figured in step 2 (watts) times 3600 (or
your arbitrarily decided charge time) and you will have your input
power in joules. Write this down.
Repeat this experiment at least 5 times in a row or until you can
get consistent input and output measurements. The amount of power
you can take out will reduce significantly the first few times until
it stabilizes. When you do the experiment twice in a row and get
the same results you will know that your particular system has
stabilized and you can get an exact figure of the cop on the back
The data from this experiment will be continually posted under the
database section of this group. I am encouraging everyone to CONTINUE
to see this experiment through if you have begun it, even if you want
to change things after viewing everyone else's numbers. If you want
to change your setup, do it AFTER this experiment and report your
findings. We will add another column for your next setup. This is
not a competition, it is mass experimentation for the learning benefit
of all involved. The data from those who have extreme numbers, even
on the low side, is important. Everyone needs to learn what to do and
(as equally important) what not to do.
If you want in the experiment, forget the conditioning for now. Just
put one battery on the back end and one on the front. The wall
charger is fine. Don't worry now about matching to the c20 rate of the
primary, just find the sweet spot of the motor, the most magnets per
minute per miliamp wherever that may be. Just report your
measurements for steps 1 and 2.
--------------Don't cheap out on the 2ndary battery if you are
You will be disappointed and all your efforts will be in vain. Yes,
this circuit can desulphate old batteries, but it can't put
electrolyte back in dried up gel cells, and it can't straighten
warped plates, and it can't repair shorted cells.
The better shape the back battery is the better it will take the
charge and that's the ONLY thing we are after in this experiment.
I bought loads of batteries at "great deals" only to find that they
must have sat on the shelf for too long and could only be charged to
50-75% of their rated capacity.
If you want to do multiple setups that's
fine, just report each separately and we'll log the data accordingly.
One point for future consideration. I would not get in the habit of
taking the battery down to 12.00V. It will shorten the battery's
life considerably if this is habitually done. I would work between
say the 12.4V and 13.0V range [12.40 and 12.70 is ideal for efficiency tests.].
By all means, don't let it set for days uncharged.
The simple reason
being that the secondary battery is a lot lower in impedance than
your 10ohm load, so it will naturally pull more power. Granted, it
can't take the whole power pulse, as the bottom 24V of it is not
great enough to push through the secondary, but none the less, it
consumes more power than your 10ohm load resistor, (not to mention
has much more smoothing action than your capacitor).
If you wanted to adjust to the C20 rate, you could. The battery
would have less "bounce". But that is about the only difference.
It is true, for longer durations, and for a little more accurate
results, you could go for the c20 rate. Your battery would not heat
up as much in discharging. But the 10ohm resistor for this test,
will expedite the load testing, and will not throw the results off
I agree that the one spike vs.
many spikes needs to be investigated further. However, I don't
believe John has said anywhere to limit this to 1 spike. I'll tell
you that in some of my setups, one spike per pulse worked the best,
others liked multiple spikes per pulse. We are not looking for
specific waveforms. We are looking for arbitrary data which shows
I know the temptation is very strong to jump forward into another
experiment, and I expect that everyone will want to try different
things. That is to be expected and encouraged. But I am suggesting
to all, at this point, to maximize all their efforts in getting the
best possible numbers for steps 1, 2, and 3. There has been an
overabundance of speculation and presupposition on these groups that
tend to drown out the results of successful scientific
I would really like to see this forum transform from a group of
Bedini enthusiasts to a fast-growing consensus of researchers with
documented proof of the legitimacy of this technology.
Resources for History, Theory, Advancement and Application.
John Bedini's book, a few of his DVDs and an SSG parts kit: rpmgt.org/order.htmlThe following is the Yahoo forum we are using to discuss and build these machines: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bedini_Monopole3
Some of the plans for building this device come from the following web site: http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Bedini_SG
Thomas Bearden: cheniere.org
Transcribed Tesla Patents
588177 APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING OZONE highlighted Some Tesla's patents relating to Bedini SSG
Patents 512340 593138 685012